Bolivian Mountaneering

Nellie, Macey, and I have been in Bolivia for a little over a week now and so far it has proven to be the best place to wrap up our time in South America. We started at one of Bolivia's main attractions, Lake Titicaca, in the little shore-side town of Copacabana. 

After a few relaxed days on the shores Lake Titicaca we headed for the hustle-bustle of La Paz. The city center of La Paz is located at 3,600 meters above sea level, making it the highest seat of government in the world. One might think that after spending a month above 3,400 meters you would get used to the altitude, but give me a flight of stairs and I can show you just how little oxygen there is here! 

Our first day in La Paz we heard about a trek to climb one of the mountains in the nearby Cordillera Real. Said to be the easiest 6,000 meter peak in the world, most tour companies will take you there for only $140. We jumped on the idea hardly knowing what we were getting ourselves into. So last Sunday we left La Paz with 2 guides headed for Huayna Potosi. 

The first day, we arrived at base camp, 4700 m, around noon. After a quick lunch we put on all our gear and headed out for a nearby glacier for practice maneuvering on ice with crampons and an ice ax. We scaled up and down this glacier for a couple hours all the while becoming more comfortable with our gear. Before leaving the glacier, we found a vertical wall of ice and practiced a little ice climbing, just in case. 

We spent the first night at base camp and woke up early the next morning to make a push for high camp, 5,130 m. Having to carry all of our equipment those 400 m was no easy feat but after just a couple hours we reached high camp and settled in to the cozy "lodge" they have built there. The climbers all stayed in the tiny loft you can see in the picture below. At the time I took that picture there were only 7 of us there. By the end of the day, 25 people who would attempt the climb with us were all sleeping in that same space. Pretty cozy to say the least! We ate lunch, played cards, ate dinner, and then went to bed around 6 to prep for the upcoming climb. 

At 1 am on Tuesday morning we left high camp and began our summit attempt. At this point, Nellie and I split up, each being secured to our own guide. My guide, Marcario, has been leading people to the top of this mountain for 10 years and he seemed more than confident that we would reach the summit. Marc and I began the ascent behind a number of other climbers, assuming a steady pace. Because it was pitch black, and snowing, all I could see was the area around me that my headlight illuminated. In the distance above, lines of other lights floated ahead snaking their way slowly up the mountain. Still I had no idea what I had signed up for. 

Within about 40 minutes we had made our way toward the front of the line of climbers and still maintained that same steady pace as before. Slowly but surely and one step at a time we made our ascent; not bothering to talk as we moved on account of the lack of oxygen available at this point. After 2 hours we had pushed away from all the other climbers- I could see 3 lights faintly glowing some distance ahead of me and every so often would catch a glimpse of a few lights bobbing below me. We were all alone in the desolate expanse that is Huayna Potosi at night. Most of this time I spent looking down at my own feet trying my hardest to place them in the holes that Marc left behind. To step outside of his footsteps meant sinking knee deep in snow and more importantly, wasting energy that I would surely need later. We pushed on like this, just Marcario and I and the mountain for some time until all of a sudden Marc stopped ahead of me. I hadn't noticed but we had come above cloud level and the stars and the moon were vividly bright. Off to my left, the lights of Bolivia's second largest city, El Alto, sparkled  like the stars above. Ahead and still towering above, I caught my first glimpse of the summit looming and waiting for the tiny ants below to make their way up. Here we rested for a while for some water and trail mix and to take in our surroundings. 

It's too cold to stay in one place that long at such an altitude so we pressed on. Up and up we went, Marc leading the way and me doing my best to keep up. The closer we got to the summit, the bigger it became- a seemingly insurmountable obstacle lying directly in our path. At around 5,800m I noticed our pace had diminished drastically. My steps were half the size of my feet and I couldn't manage more than 2 at a time. It had become a game of two's in my mind and counting my steps was all I could do to keep moving. 1-2. 1-2. 1-2. Still we went up, higher and higher until I was sure my legs or my lungs would quit. At one point the group ahead of us had scratched with an ice ax: 5950 in the ice to our left. I was standing at the base of another mountain entirely, the summit was an immense 138m above. Marc turned around. "How are you feeling?" he asked. "Tired" was my response. "Tired but I'm doing ok." At this he nodded. "We take another break. Drink water, eat chocolate. Este és el ultimo pauso," he said as relaxed as if we were at the beach.

The last challenge, the climb to 6,000m was by far the most difficult thing I have ever done. We followed a steep line toward the beginning of the ridge that walks you to the summit. Here we gruelingly tredged our way through 3 feet of fresh snow climbing at an angle no less than 45°. One wrong step and the crevasse 30m below is ready, mouth open, to swallow you up. 1-2. 1-2. The only thing that keeps you going. 

After what seemed ages Marc and I finally made it to 6,000m- only 88 left to go. At this point, the horizon to my left began to glow red with the fire of the rising sun. 

Before we started the last section, Marc stopped me and said, "Ok my friend. This part. Focus and concentration. Ok vamos!" Soon I saw why. The last 88 meters take you across a knife-edge ridge on top of the world. Just wide enough for my two feet with a 600m drop on either side, this ridge requires all the focus one can muster. In 15 minutes we had made it to the top! And just in time...

Sunrise at 6,088m is a sight that words cannot describe. Slowly the light spread across the mountains and toward Peru. With a 360° view at that altitude you can see for ages. La Paz, Lake Titicaca, the Andes and even some mountains in Chilè were all visible in the growing daylight. I had to sit down in order to take it all in! The group that was ahead of us had brought a thermos full of Matè and we all shared a cup and some high fives to celebrate being the first to the top that day. I took a ton of photos, tried to gather all I was seeing one last time, and then headed back down. 

What took nearly 5 hours to ascend was only an hour and a half in descent. It was amazing seeing everything I had just climbed past but in full light. We walked over ice bridges across massive crevasses and on the edge of several other crevasses and I hadn't even noticed until the way back down. We made it back to high camp at 8 am for about an hours rest before heading back down to base camp and then all the way back to La Paz by 2 pm. Some kind of day! 

Giant ice cave with Illimani in the background

Tomorrow we head for the jungle first biking down the world's most dangerous world to Coroico and then catching an overnight bus to Rurrenbaque. From there we will do a 3 day trip to the Yungas. Tomorrow marks only 2 weeks left before the long journey home. With a little luck, I will post one more blog post before that happens!

Christmas in Canoa

Yesterday wraps up week one at the beach. We have viewed the past week as a sort of vacation from our vacation if you will. Up until Canoa we have been going almost at warp speed first through Colombia before rapidly tearing across Ecuador. When we decided to come to the beach for Christmas we didn't know what to expect but were excited for a change of pace.

Canoa, the town with the constant techno beat, is trying to be a tourist hotspot and party beach escape but luckily for us, largely remains a lazy, gem of a town. Essentially the town consists of a bunch of beach bums who have erected ceviche and smoothie stands just off the beach. Our favorite, Las Ceviches de Damìen, is owned by, you guessed it, a Canoan man named Damien who makes the best damned batidos around. A batido, for those who have yet to be blessed with this nectar from above, is simply fresh fruit with a little bit of ice, sugar, and milk all blended together into perfection. My favorite, recommended by Damien, is piña y banana but it's certainly hard to go wrong when you throw mango into the picture!

On our first day in Canoa, we had one of those strokes of luck that makes you feel you must be on the right path. We were sitting on the beach in the morning honing our djembe skills when these 2 local guys came up and started this strange sort of dance fighting to our drumming. We watched in wonder as these 2 guys inverted and threw themselves at one another in rhythm. This form of dancing called Capoeira originates in Brazil and my white boy dance moves have nothing on it. After a little while these guys came and sat with us and we got to talking. David and Jairon have lived in Canoa their entire lives and they really have no desire to leave. Jairon owns a boat and together they fish and catch shrimp and prawn for a living. Eventually, as all good conversations do, the topic turned to food and they asked if we had ever had parrillada. They told us they had everything to make it but the fish and that if we paid for the fish they would prepare it for us all for lunch. Two Canoan fisherman offering to cook us fish... That's a no brainer right?

Jairon and his family live just a block off the beach and we got a tour of the place before the cooking began. Then I ran next door with David to get fish as Jairon built a grill on the floor of the entrance to the kitchen. We bought 5 whole fish which were caught earlier that day and went back to clean and prepare them. After watching them each clean 2, Nellie asked if she could do the last one. It took about twice as long and wasn't quite as pretty but she got the job done! Then they cooked and we all had a mighty feast.

After lunch we sat around listening to music and learning about each other's lives. The simplicity of theirs, essentially fishing and surfing takes up all their time, is astounding. Must be nice to not have so many distractions. Just before the sun began to sink they took us out on their boat to set a trap for langostas, or giant prawns. We got back to the beach just in time for a glorious sunset, a perfect end to an incredible day.

Today we left the lazy beach life and headed back inland to Cuenca where we will bring in the new year. Our time in Ecuador is quickly coming to an end. Sad as that is, Peru is lurking just around the corner and I'm sure it will do nothing short of impress.

Somehow a Month Passed

Nearly 3 weeks have passed since my last blog update. In that time we have experienced much and everyday we get more comfortable being here. If I were to write about everything we have been up to it would take me all day so instead I want to touch on some highlights and catch up to the present day.

On our way out of Colombia, we made one last stop at a church, El Sanctuario de Las Lojas, built across a canyon nearly 300 feet above the river below. In 1754, a little girl saw the silhouette of the Virgin Mary in the cliff face and naturally they had to build a church there. That cliff face is now the back wall of this sanctuary!

We made it to Ecuador after 10 days in Colombia and headed from the boarder town of Tulcan straight to Otavalo. Nestled in the shadow of 2 volcanoes and a third mountain, it is no wonder why everyone tells you "make sure you make it to Otavlo!" The highlight of this little town is the indigenous market that takes over literally the entire town each Saturday. Early in the morning, the animal market kicks off and people sell all types of animals. Alpaca, guinea pigs, puppies, chicks, you name it, you can buy it in Otavalo. Then as the animal market wraps up, the regular market begins. At this market you can buy anything from vegetables to spices to jewelry to alpaca blankets, sweaters, scarves to hackysacks. Our best buy by a long shot was a handmade djembe made from the wood of a coco tree and the skin of a cow. The only problem with it is we are not sure that US customs will let us bring it home. We will keep our fingers crossed I guess.

After several days in Otavalo, we headed to Mindo with 2 girls we met in Colombia for a 10 day stay at a farm in the middle of the cloud forest. The farm is run by a 7 foot tall German man who has relocated to Ecuador to get away from the craziness of western society. He worked our little butts off but seeing as how we stayed and ate for free while there, it's hard to complain too much.

Then, on Thursday we took off with 2 guys we met on the farm and headed for the beach. With a little encouragement from everyone from the farm, we decided to try our luck at hitch hiking this portion of the journey. Surprisingly, within 20 minutes a man driving a box truck picked up all 4 of us and we were on our way! He took us a good way then dropped us at the turnoff for the next town on our route. This time only 5 minutes passed before the 4 of us got picked up again.

We crammed into a tiny SUV and off we went again. Quickly we connected with the driver, a man from Santo Domingo named Arturo, who was headed to El Carmen to see his father. He wanted to introduce us to his family and next thing we know we are at his father's house drinking papaya batidos with the family. The ease with which they opened their home, barely knowing anything about us and yet feeding us and including us as part of their family was one of the best moments of this trip so far. What an example of how to show trust and love to others. There is much to learn from people such as Arturo and his family.

After Arturo's, we hitched part way and bussed the rest of the way to Canoa, a small beach town with perfect surf and a plethora of fresh fish. We have been here since Thursday night and will spend Christmas here before continuing south to Peru. Check in soon for what this beach town has to offer but for now Merry Christmas everyone and hope you all have a wonderful holiday with your families. We send our love from the beach and will be thinking of everyone back home as we celebrate the holiday tomorrow!

El Fin de la Semana Primera

Today brings an end to our first week in South America. Originally we had only planned on spending a couple days in Colombia but quickly and without warning, we fell in love with this place and its people. That being said, we are still here. Everyone we talk to is nothing but welcoming and curious about where we are from and what we're doing here. They are quick to share their favorite things about each place we visit and we have been accepted with open arms. And that's just the locals.

As we are staying solely in hostels, we have also met a number of others, travelers such as ourselves, who we seem to connect with automatically. There is an instant bond with these people due to our similar situations and we have already begun to learn much from them. When regularly intersecting with people from all over the world, each with their own, unique outlook on life how could you not? In my opinion there is no better way to expand your perspective than to interact and share with these people and share we will.

Since my last post, we have travelled from Bogota to Armenia where we hopped on a colectivo (a sort of shared taxi that allows everyone to travel very cheaply, less than a dollar per hour) to a small town named Salento. Here we ate a giant lunch (a common theme arising on this trip) of trout and patacones (fried plantain) before climbing to an overlook with a view of Salento and the surrounding mountains. To add icing to an already sweet cake, a massive rainbow appeared over the valley below. A que lindo! After some shopping, a cup of cafè con leche from a nearby coffee farm, and of course some more food we headed back for another night in Armenia.

From Armenia we hopped on another bus to Cali where we caught a van to Popayan. This van ride kept us constantly on edge as I'm convinced the driver was attempting to see how many near-misses he could accumulate in a 2 hour drive. At least we weren't on a cliff edge this time!

Popayan has been our favorite place thus far. Nicknamed "The White City", Popayan is unique for its colonial style architecture and specifically for the white finish on all the buildings adding a distinct energy to this place that you feel immediately. Our hostel here is right in the middle of everything with a spectacular view of all the action. Today we went to El Museo de Historia Natural and learned a ton about the geology and animals of the area. There are more birds and insects here than I ever imagined!

Tomorrow we are continuing south to Ipiales for one more night in Colombia before crossing the border into Ecuador on Thursday. Sad to leave this incredible country but I know Ecuador will only continue to impress.

PS the blogger app won't let me put pictures where I want them nor will it let me add captions to the photos. I'm putting pictures up anyway but it's up to you to figure out where they belong :) Love you guys!

Greetings from Bogota

Bueños dias de Bogota! For the past 3 days, Nellie and I have been doing our best to explore this incredible city. With nearly 8 million people, Bogota is a massive city with much to offer for every type of tourist. On day 1 we set out from our hostel for El Museo Del Oro. This 4 story museum is full of ancient artifacts that help to tell the story of metal work in South America. Each exhibit is full of crowns, jewlery, bowls, etc. made from gold, platinum, copper, as well as different mixtures of these minerals some dating back thousands of years. The story told by these artifacts gives a direct look into the ancient peoples that so brilliantly molded these relics. The fact that these people were able to fuse gold with platinum or copper and then expertly mold and create such detailed objects blew me away. I came down here with a strong desire to learn about the ancient cultures of South America and this museum, on day one, certainly peaked my interest!

On Day 2 we wandered to La Plaza de Bolivar and La Casa de Nariño, where the President of Colombia resides. This area is heavily patrolled by military personel weilding automatic weapons which makes sense as it is the most lavish part of the city we have seen but just 2 blocks away, the streets and houses are in shambles. The stark contrast between the way the government officials live and the way the people live is astounding. While Bogota is changing for the better, in my opinion they still have a long way to go.

Today Nellie and I climbed to the top of Mount Monserrate, the mountain that towers over Bogota at an elevation of 3152 meters (10,341 ft). There is both a gondola and cable car that goes to the top but someone from the hostel told us the hike was the way to go so we took his advice. This climb took us up the biggest flight of stairs I´ve ever seen as we weaved slowly up the mountain. At about half way to the top, we were cursing our friend from the hostel as we had to break about every 20 steps. It definitely made us feel better though that every one, not just us Americans, was dying from the climb! At the top is a large church built in the 17th century with the most amazing view of Bogota. In the end the hike was well worth it because of the amazing vistas that follow you as you climb. That being said, we took the cable car down :)

Even though I have loved all the places we have been here, so far the best part of this city for me is the street art that lights up the streets wherever you go. On houses, walls, and even street signs, artists have been busy at work here. It certainly adds to the awe that I´m sure radiates from my face as I walk through the streets. Today I found my favorite so far and I want to share it with you!

Tomorrow we will leave this city and head south for Ecuador by bus. I can´t wait to lay eyes on the countryside of Colombia as we ride toward the border. Hope everyone is well at home! More to come soon!

The Journey Continues

After about 3 weeks off the road and recuperating in DC, Nellie and I are taking off for South America this afternoon. We arrive in Bogota, Colombia this evening where we will spend the next 5 days or so as we begin our 3 month, 4 country adventure in South America. From Bogota, we will head south where we will be working on a family farm in Mindo, Ecuador for a couple weeks before heading to the beach for Christmas. On December 30th, we will meet 3 of our friends from Austin in Lima, Peru and head to Cuzco for a trek into The Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. After visiting the heart of the Incan Empire, we will head back to the coast of Peru for a week in the beach town of Mancora.

Ultimately, we leave from La Paz, Bolivia on the 21st of February to come back to DC. The last month of the trip is yet to be fully planned but that's what makes a trip like this so fun! Please stay posted for blog updates on where we are, the people we meet, and our experiences while we are down there.

We will miss all of you! We will not be completely disconnected so please send us emails, facebook messages, etc. and we will get back to you as we can!

The Road Ahead

"...In reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man's living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun. If you want to get more out of life, you must lose your inclination for monotonous security and adopt a helter-skelter style of life that will at first appear to you to be crazy. But once you become accustomed to such a life you will see its full meaning and its incredible beauty.”

 This quote, by Christopher McCandless, has had a drastic impact on my life. And with another roadtrip approaching, it has never been more relevant. 

In a few days, Nellie and I will hit the road for another 5,500 mile cross country roadtrip. Roxanne, Nellie's Jeep, was just inspected; other than needing an oil change and a new license plate light, she is raring and ready to go! We have one additional passenger coming with us on part of this trip.  Our friend Sonya from the farm has decided to squeeze into the Jeep, at least until Glacier NP, where she will hop on a train to Chicago. Sure it's gonna be a tight fit, but we could not be more excited to share the wonder of the road with a close friend!

While the ultimate destination is Nellie's house in Washington DC, we learned last time that it is important to take a trip like this one day at a time. That being said, our destiniation for the first day will be Kluane Lake in the Yukon Territory of Canada.  Kluane Lake, the largest lake in the YT, was Nellie and my favorite spot on the Alaska Highway (The Alcan) on the drive up and we can't wait to lay eyes on its beauty again!

After Kluane, we will continue south to Haines Junction where we will turn off the Alaska Highway onto the Haines Highway. In an effort to change up our route a bit (after awhile, the Alcan can become a bit monotonous) we will head back into Alaska where we will visit the nation's largest Bald Eagle conservatory on our way into Haines, AK. After one night in Haines, we will hop onto the ferry to Skagway before heading up the Klondike Highway which meets back up with the Alcan in Whitehorse, YT. From Whitehorse, it is just over 1,400 miles to our next big stop, Banff National Park in Alberta.

While it will certainly be tough to leave Alaska, and especially our family on the farm, I am thrilled at the opportunity to get back on the road and further explore the beauty that is on the road ahead. Please stay tuned in for updates from the road!


Check out this map of our proposed route. Let me know if we will be passing through your town. We would love to stop in for a visit!

View From Calypso to the Capital- Roadtrip Fall 2012 in a larger map